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Nailing Down The Greasy Line Between High Fashion Photography And Smut

By Joanna Robinson | Posted Under Miscellaneous | Comments (50)



Interview-Magazine-June-July-2011-Alexander-Skarsgard-cover.jpeg

Okay, I sort of hate the word “smut.” Just typing it makes me feel like I’ve got my hair in a tight bun and am delivering a shrill lecture while tossing your copies of D.H. Lawrence or “Flowers For Algernon” on the fire. (Baaalllllllllzac.) I’m a liberal child of (mostly) liberal parents and was born and raised in the sex-drenched Sodom & Gomorrah of the country: San Francisco. I believe that I’m Okay, You’re Okay, that sex is fantastic, fun and should be empowering and that it’s wrong to criminalize sex or any (consensual) sex act. Plus I write for this site which is all about boobs, abs, and, oh yes, the occasional film review. That being said, there are some smutty, creepy-ass photos in the magazines the kids are reading these days. And it’s not sexy, it’s not.

Frank/graphic sexuality as subject matter is, of course, nothing new. (Just do an image search for Robert Maplethorpe, but make sure your boss isn’t looking.) But I’m not really here to talk to you about “art.” I’m woefully underqualified for that job. I’m here to talk to you about mainstream magazine spreads and celebrities (totes overqualified for that job!). The idea, presumably, behind a photo spread (usually with an accompanying article rife with *ss-kissery) in a high-profile magazine is to a) sell you on this celebrity (So down to earth! So brain-meltingly attractive! So just like us!) and b) in doing so, inspire you to see their new movie/TV series/whateverhaveyou. And that’s an understood and accepted cog in the Hollywood machine. They’re selling, we’re buying. But what does it say about the product when the ad makes me curl my lip and head to the showers. No, no, not in a sexy “I need a cold shower” way but in a “ain’t no no water hot enough, ain’t no soap abrasive enough” sort of way. Terry Richardson, favored by GQ and Rolling Stone is the most well-known perpetrator, but he’s not alone. Here are a few recent examples of photographers, their favorite tricks and their well-known subjects. They make my skin crawl. Only one is NSFW, a baaaaaaaaaarely so. But there is, if you look really really extraordinarily hard, an exposed nipple. SHOCK! AWE!

The Terry Richardson T-Shirt Rip: It’s as if these ladies could no longer tolerate the thin layer of cotton between themselves and the world. GET IT OFF GET IT OFF GET IT OFF.
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(Megan Fox, Lea Michele and Mila Kunis)

The Mikael Jansson “Do I Need More Deodorant?” Pose: These three gorgeous specimens look like they were sent to sweat it out with the hippies at Burning Man and then dunked in Vaseline. You look rank, I’d really rather you put your arms down.
armpits.jpg
(Penelope Cruz, Eva Mendes and Zac Efron)

The Mert & Marcus Massive Head Injury: Honestly, were these chicas walloped upside the head just before the cameras started flashing? Were they paid in aspirin? Head trauma does not scream sex to me.
massive head injury .jpg
(Frieda Pinto, Lindsay Lohan and Cameron Diaz)

The Terry Richardson Oral Fixation:: This pose is so worn out. And a cherry? How clever, Mr. Richardson.
oral fixation.jpg
(Pam Anderson, Megan Fox and Lea Michele)

gossip-girl-rolling-stone-terry-richardson-190309-3.jpeg
(Leighton Meester, Blake Lively)

The Steven Klein Domestic Violence Is Sexy Campaign: This is the most baffling to me. Scenes of violence are supposed to turn me on?
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(Bruce Willis and wife Emma)

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(Alexader Skarsgard and model)

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(Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie)

A Final Round Up Of Terry Richardson More Egregious Shots Sexualizing Homelessness, Pedophilia and Beastiality

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(Mary-Kate Olsen and her bruised knees)

NataliaVodianova-VogueJP-0801-05-TerryRichardson.jpeg
(Natalia Vodianova age 29)

got milk.jpg
(Josie Maran and, oh, Terry, not the livestock)

jimmy-choo-angela-lindvall-by-terry-richardson-01.jpeg
(Angela Lindvall and, well, yeah, I’m with him on this one, those shoes look wicked uncomfortable)

Listen, if you find some of that sexy. Okay, cool, more power to you. That means you and I have different definitions of creepy and I’m becoming my grandmother a lot sooner than I thought. You didn’t like that domestic violence stuff, though, right? And the pedophilia thing, that was pretty nasty, right? AND OH MY GOD WHY IS TERRY RICHARDSON FRIENDLY WITH OBAMA?
terry-richardson-1.jpeg

Joanna Robinson hopes that those of you who know a lot more about photography will weigh in. She’s genuinely interested in your opinion.









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Comments

Richardson is a major sleazebag. Mert and Markus' work usually emphasises the beauty of the models in a way that Richardson doesn't.

Posted by: Nevin at July 25, 2011 4:13 PM

Rowles is one of the sleaziest a smut peddlers on the web. A perfect example being this filthy article. Just, pure trash.

You should all be ashamed of yourselves.

Posted by: BarbadoSlim at July 25, 2011 4:20 PM

I absolutely love the American Apparel back-page ads that the Boston Phoenix always carries. Usually it's fairly standard 70's lit bad vaguely creepy porno but every once in a while they'll pull out a marvel like the picture you pretty much had to call The Ass That Ate Cambridge.

Which was selling... shirts, I think.

Posted by: twig at July 25, 2011 4:24 PM

Joanna Robinson hopes that those of you who know a lot more about photography will weigh in.

Why did I read "photography" as "pornography"?

Posted by: Fredo at July 25, 2011 4:26 PM

Obama didn't know who that was till it was too late. It's like that Kids in the Hall sketch where the mayoral hopeful accidentally awards the blue ribbon to a child molester's jam.

Posted by: Melodie at July 25, 2011 4:30 PM

God, I hate the hell out of Richardson. And the biggest problem is that he's so "controversial" (for a totally bullshit, disgusting reason) that whenever he does a photoshoot it gets noticed. And so, other idiots see that his ads get the attention and hire him to do more stupid ads, which get attention, etc, etc, etc. It's just the same bullshit every single time, and hopefully, with the fashion world being as fickle as it is they'll discard him quickly and we won't have to see any more of this shit.

Posted by: Figgy at July 25, 2011 4:34 PM

I don't really give a shit about the sleaze pictures. They just come off as unimaginative and porny. Not my idea of art, but they don't offend me either.

The Brad and Angelina one made me stop cold. That just looked way too real. It would be different if it was a screen shot from a film; two actors being paid to demonstrate a story. But this was for an interview spread? A product? I guess I should find out the context of this shot but in the meanwhile, I'm placing it firmly in the "Unsettling" category.

The Natalia Vodianova-little girl pic makes it straight into the "That's FUCKED UP!" file, no questions asked.

Posted by: Kala at July 25, 2011 4:35 PM

The picture of Natalia Vodianova makes me want to cry.

Thank you for writing this article.

Posted by: Mrs. Julien at July 25, 2011 4:36 PM

Ellen Von Unwerth does a lot of the same type of photography. And she's almost as successful- There's a whole bunch of creepiness here-although I've always thought of that Angie/Brad shoot as a film noir blocking sequence.

Posted by: Mrcreosote at July 25, 2011 4:36 PM

The Mila Kunis picture is weirding me out for the fact that it looks they photoshopped her floating head onto someone else's body. Seriously,there's NO neck there.

And the 29-year-old model dressed like a little girl is just wrong, wrong, wrong.

Posted by: Even Stevens at July 25, 2011 4:38 PM

Wasn't Terry Richardson the one who had all the allegations of sexual molestation leveled against him by various models about five months ago?

By the way, still not sure why over use of the flash is supposed to be "art".

Posted by: ArmaAngelus at July 25, 2011 4:44 PM

I dunno, I would buy that Angie/Brad shot as "ACTING!" if it weren't one of several that the same photographer has taken depicting domestic violence as a sexy thing. That's what's gross, his fascination with that concept.

Posted by: coveredinbees at July 25, 2011 4:44 PM

Tom Lehrer said it best...

Smut!
Give me smut and nothing but!
A dirty novel I can't shut,
If it's uncut,
And unsubt- le.

I've never quibbled
If it was ribald,
I would devour where others merely nibbled.
As the judge remarked the day that he
Acquitted my aunt hortense,
"to be smut
It must be ut-
Terly without redeeming social importance."

Por-
Nographic pictures I adore.
Indecent magazines galore,
I like them more
If they're hard core.
(bring on the obscene movies, murals, postcards, neckties,
Samplers, stained-glass windows, tattoos, anything!
More, more, I'm still not satisfied!)

Stories of tortures
Used by debauchers,
Lurid, licentious, and vile,
Make me smile.
Novels that pander
To my taste for candor
Give me a pleasure sublime.
(let's face it, I love slime.)

All books can be indecent books
Though recent books are bolder,
For filth (I'm glad to say) is in
The mind of the beholder.
When correctly viewed,
Everything is lewd.
(I could tell you things about peter pan,
And the wizard of oz, there's a dirty old man!)

I thrill
To any book like fanny hill,
And I suppose I always will,
If it is swill
And really fil
Thy.

Who needs a hobby like tennis or philately?
I've got a hobby: rereading lady chatterley.
But now they're trying to take it all
Away from us unless
We take a stand, and hand in hand
We fight for freedom of the press.
In other words,

Smut! (I love it)
Ah, the adventures of a slut.
Oh, I'm a market they can't glut,
I don't know what
Compares with smut.

Hip hip hooray!
Let's hear it for the supreme court!
Don't let them take it away!

Posted by: Tranjo at July 25, 2011 4:48 PM

Not only are Terry Richardson's images cringe inducing, they're technically lazy. There's not much beauty or talent involved in overexposing your subject with straight on flash. So if the lighting is lazy and the posing is lazy, you have one lazy photographer.

Posted by: Arrogant Ambassador at July 25, 2011 4:51 PM

How do you think they achieve that "I've Never Bathed In My Life" look? Olive oil? Coconut oil? Vaaaaaaaseline? Pam? I Can't Believe It's Not Butter. . .Spray?

Posted by: terramoto at July 25, 2011 4:52 PM

I'd edit that last question to "AND OH MY GOD WHY IS TERRY RICHARDSON?"

Posted by: Jerry at July 25, 2011 4:54 PM

Oh crikey FUCK that picture is creepy.

Okay....you asked for my opinion and I only have 'ew, dude, no, fucking hell NO' but BUT, I could offer one possible reading of that picture he MAY in a dangerously misguided way have been trying to convey. A quote that is also vastly flawed.

I AM IN NO WAY TRYING TO SUPPORT THAT CREEPY AND WRONG WRONG IMAGE NOR JUSTIFY ITS EXISTENCE NOR MAKE EXCUSES BUT JOANNA ASKED A QUESTION AND I AM A SLAVE TO HER WORDS SO

He MAY have been trying to make the point that in fashion super models OFTEN have babyish, youthful, doll like faces, and despite their height are often skinny enough to look like children who got stretched. SO he may be trying to throw in our face the reality of the fashion industry attempting to sexualise children.

Like I say, I'm not trying to make excuses for it and if it was his point(and I may be way off the mark, he might just be a scumbag...is just a scumbag) he's..well, he's missed, and taken it in the wrong direction. But there you go. The rest is just creepy and wrong.

Posted by: Nadine at July 25, 2011 4:59 PM

Arrogant Ambassador: I totally agree. This guy is a lazy, incompetent turd, who wouldn't know how to take an artistically worthy photograph to save his life. Anyone with a cheapo camera can do shots like that. It offends me on so many levels, the artistic being just one of them.

Posted by: Figgy at July 25, 2011 5:00 PM

Even Obama looks terribly shiny and gross as if simply TOUCHING Richardson causes one to become instantly grimy.

Posted by: I Need More Allowance at July 25, 2011 5:02 PM

Nadine, I think you're giving Richardson too much credit. When he speaks/interviews he can't provided anything as nuanced as what you've written so I question whether he could make a photo with that intent especially when he has done similar looking photos with other models for other shoots.

Posted by: ArmaAngelus at July 25, 2011 5:03 PM

ArmaAngelus, then I GLADLY say I'm wrong and he's just a giant creepoid.

Posted by: Nadine at July 25, 2011 5:05 PM

Understanding photography doesn't help these pictures at all. We're just as disgusted as you.

Posted by: Paultera at July 25, 2011 5:06 PM

My favorite Terry Richardson story will always be Uncle Terry and the tampon tea.

I told him I had my period so I wanted to keep my underwear on, and he asked me to take my tampon out for him to play with. “I love tampons!” he said, in that psychotically upbeat way that temporarily convinces so many girls that what’s fun for Uncle Terry is fun for them.
source

Posted by: ArmaAngelus at July 25, 2011 5:16 PM

OH FUCKING HELL NOW I WANT TO BE SICK ALL OVER EVERYTHING.


I'm not even joking, holy shit. Oh...just fucking hell man. What the fuck?? Ugh. Vomit rising.

Posted by: Nadine at July 25, 2011 5:18 PM

The "Do I Need More Deodorant?" Pose reminds me of the commercial from a few years ago with the tagline: "When she sweats, she's sexy. When YOU sweat ... you ... STINK"

Also, who has been shooting all the doggy-style poses lately? Is that one photog or pretty much across the (story)board?

Posted by: , at July 25, 2011 5:22 PM

There is only one reason this crap exists: People LOOK at it. It sells (whatever they are selling). It titillates and is provocative of SOME response, therefore it is effective. I am in no way offended by the subject matter, but I am not particularly impressed with any of it. If that is cutting edge high fashion, I am glad I am a t-shirt and jeans sort of girl. And not the $100 t-shirt kind either. I'm talking $7 Old Navy v-neck tee's, here. MAYBE $10 if they make my rack look ESPECIALLY good.

Posted by: Lindsey with an 'e' at July 25, 2011 5:27 PM

As others have noted, lazy, gross and creepy would be how I describe most of these pictures. The only one I find in any way artistically compelling is the shot of Bruce and Emma Willis by Steven Klein. It's graphically interesting, I like the colour palette, and the situation isn't "explicit", by which I mean, I'm not sure what's going on. Is this aftermath, or prelude? And yes, Richardson is a complete fucking hack. I wouldn't hire him to be 2nd shooter on a wedding. If I shot weddings. Which I don't.

Posted by: Groundloop at July 25, 2011 5:29 PM

I love how Blake Lively looks very much, "Um, no," about that shot.

Posted by: coveredinbees at July 25, 2011 5:42 PM

To be fair, I remember the Bruce and Emma Willis photos and they are weirdly enthralling. Maybe I am getting the wrong message but it seems a little more than straight up "scenes of violence" as described above. or maybe I'm just a little kinky.

http://www.wmagazine.com/celebrities/2009/07/bruce_emma_willis_ss#slide=1

The rest horrify me to varying degrees.

Posted by: Anne At Large at July 25, 2011 6:01 PM

I think I remember the Jolie-Pitt photoshoot. It wasn't so much glorification and as it was a look at secret life of 60'ssuburbia and (to me) Catholicism.

Posted by: AmbroseKalifornia at July 25, 2011 6:31 PM

What AmbroseKalifornia said. I'm pretty sure the Brad and Angelina shot was from a full editorial spread where the other shots involve them looking like the perfect 50s/60s couple with their adorable aryan children and nice house/cars/clothes/etc. interspersed with these kinds of shots of the perfect facade broken down.

But it's a valid concern in general, if not for that specific photo. "This woman was just horribly murdered and maybe raped too, isn't she PRETTY?" is a ridiculously common fashion pose and it freaks me out.

Posted by: Nat Kittyface at July 25, 2011 6:40 PM

Yeah, Natty, if it were an isolated photo, cool. But this seems to be a common theme/fascination for that particular photographer and it creeps me out.

Posted by: coveredinbees at July 25, 2011 6:42 PM

It's not even just a common theme for that photographer; it's unfortunately everywhere.

Glossed Over covered a W spread some time ago along those lines: http://www.glossedover.com/glossed_over/2007/07/w-redefines-fas.html

There are unfortunately a lot of incredibly unhealthy tropes for women in the fashion industry on top of Photoshop and eating disorders/body issues. Even if we get to the point where a wide variety of healthy women of all shapes and sizes are given equal time in fashion magazines, well over half of them will still be in weird contorted bondage, naked-for-no-reason (or as I like to call them: WHAT ARE YOU EVEN SELLING? shoots), I-just-had-sex/I-am-about-to-have-sex, I'm-just-here-for-boys-to-look-at, infantilized, or otherwise iffy poses.

Maybe I'm getting old too. I love the fashion photography artform, I really do (honest, if someone offered to pay me to take cool weird pretty photos all day - on EITHER side of the camera - I would jump at the chance), but I really hate how much it seems to loathe the very women it employs.

Posted by: Nat Kittyface at July 25, 2011 7:00 PM

If people wanna be offended, fine. But let's face it, fashion photography has always been silly. As is most fashion.

It's hard for me to be terribly upset by images that depict stylized or faux violence when the people in the pictures look like they just sashayed out of Auschwitz (ie, because of their gaunt appearance). Clearly, the fashion industry doesn't really care so much about reality. Or the reality that most of us live. They just wanna make a striking picture. The Terry Richardson shit just looks like amateur porn, which America appears to not have any problem with (porn, that is).

Posted by: Slash at July 25, 2011 7:30 PM

These guys are clearly Helmut Newton fans. I always hated his work. I always thought he must really hate women, there's plenty of his work that makes that seem quite obvious, but particularly a photo of a man using an iron, I seem to recall, on a woman laying on an ironing board...

I have a degree in photography, from when you actually used film, and needed a darkroom. I am a photoshop artist now, so I did embrace technology. Most photographers think of themselves as "fine art" photographers...when they are really "commercial" photographers. So yes, this is their interpretation of "art". Whatever. Most of then are just full of themselves. And also full of shit. Especially some of the successful ones, since you pretty much have to be a used car salesman to sell yourself and your work.

That being said, anyone can call themselves a "photographer" apparently all it takes is to own a camera. So it is not an easy thing to do to make a career out of being a photographer.

Posted by: MRod at July 25, 2011 8:24 PM

Is it me or does Jolie's right foot look really, really weird?

Posted by: MonkeyHateClean at July 25, 2011 9:02 PM

This is really interesting...because on the one hand, I agree. And on the other 'photographer' hand, I don't to a point.

I agree with the faux domestic violence photos being ridiculous, and in complete poor taste. But the others, I don't care so much about.

I also feel that everyone is so concerned about seeing naked people, and it being bad, that we forget we all generally look the same. We all have the same parts, and have had the same points for EVER (as far as we know).

I don't care about the occasional boob, or in some cases the occasional penis, but I'm also not saying that I want a hairy, veiny, close up of anyone's under parts.

Some photographers do it well, and others don't.

I'm a big of Miles Aldridge, because he's got a very different (however, it's 'high fashion' and probably not really so) style, but I find he would probably fit in every category...except the Domestic Violence.

I guess all that really means, is a big fat I Don't Know/I Don't Care.

Posted by: Candee at July 25, 2011 9:49 PM

Whoops, I said points instead of PARTS.

Posted by: candee at July 25, 2011 9:50 PM

What AmbroseKalifornia said. I'm pretty sure the Brad and Angelina shot was from a full editorial spread where the other shots involve them looking like the perfect 50s/60s couple with their adorable aryan children and nice house/cars/clothes/etc. interspersed with these kinds of shots of the perfect facade broken down.

But it's a valid concern in general, if not for that specific photo. "This woman was just horribly murdered and maybe raped too, isn't she PRETTY?" is a ridiculously common fashion pose and it freaks me out.

Posted by: Nat Kittyface at July 25, 2011 6:40 PM

See? THAT puts in into a bit of perspective. Alone, it's a rather horrifying portrayal of domestic violence, but I can see how that could play as satire on the whole "Good Ole Days/Remember When Things Were Simple?" theme. I haven't seen the spread, but it sounds like something that is approaching art.

With the exception of the Willis's photo, the rest are silly at best (see the above comment in regards to the pedophilia pic). That picture with the Gossip Girl chicks (that's where they're from, right?) is something out of a Facebook album.

Posted by: Kala at July 25, 2011 9:57 PM

Tranjo, oh you bring up Tom Lehrer, who was Politically Incorrect before it was fashionable. I'll see your ragtime mathematician, and raise you - um, I'm not sure what he is, but - Martin Mull, especially the album "I'm Everyone I've Ever Loved." Glorious. "Last night I took you home. And we began to mmmmm, mmm-mmm-mmmm. You were such a mmmmm, mmm-mmmm-mmmm, ah-ah-ah-ah hospital, for life ..." Because the censors wouldn't let him use the real lyrics.

On point and in general, this image smith of lesser edge with the olive-oiled knee-socks ... really? Just not trying very hard is he?

Meanwhile, photos of anything helpless, scared, tiny or battered ain't sexy. It's Roman Polanski with less opportunity. Sexy is the Richard Branson pic - you know the one I mean. (http://www.kirainet.com/english/richard-bransons-book/)

Posted by: BierceAmbrose at July 25, 2011 10:22 PM

Yes, he is undoubtedly sleazy.

But as disturbing as you might find Richardson's photos, you can't deny that they're aesthetically appealing, which is not the same thing as "aesthetically pleasing." However you look at it, they did catch your eye, no?

It's easy to write off the photos as predictable and complain about the consistent overexposure, the obvious compositions, &c. But the dude knows how the human eye works. And the human eye is lazy. We "like" blatantly highlighted subjects in simple backgrounds. Richardson is only helped by the fact that he openly portrays misogyny and pedophilia. It's pretty thrilling/disturbing to see these dark fetishes that polite society wants to sweep under the rug.

Anyway, we shouldn't mistake pop art for fine art. I think that's the distinction missing here.

Posted by: Jessicator at July 25, 2011 10:58 PM

Yeah it's disgusting how thin those womens thighs are. More meat on a chicken leg.

Posted by: logan at July 25, 2011 11:22 PM

For anyone who's curious, here's the full Jolie/Pitt spread in W:

http://www.wmagazine.com/celebrities/archive/brad_pitt_angelina_jolie

Again, this doesn't excuse the *trend* of violence towards women in fashion photography, but I give this specific one a pass in the greater context of the full spread.

Posted by: Nat Kittyface at July 25, 2011 11:34 PM

The only photo I am OK with is the header pic of sweaty Skarsface.

Posted by: MG at July 26, 2011 12:37 AM

If baby goose is the King of the "staring forlornly out of car windows" look then Brad Pitt is the CEO of the two fingered "point at someone"

I swear he does this in like every. damn. movie

Posted by: Colombo at July 26, 2011 1:55 AM

I can't comment on Terry Richardson's work, other than to say I wish I was in his shoes at times, though that's just to ogle the models. I do admire(?) his ability to get the models to do some of the things he asks them to do, but I also feel that a great many models, especially runway models, have very little compunctions about doing just about anything to get their photo taken or a chance to work for such and such designer. I'm not saying it's right or wrong, just that it is. I do find his actual work usually pretty creepy.

As for Helmut, I can't truthfully know what he's thinking when he takes his photos, but from what I know of the man and his stated motivations, it's more about displaying the objectification of women, the commentary of it, rather than the actual objectification itself. Small consolation, I'm sure to those who find the work objectionable on it's face. Newton was always more of an art photographer than a fashion photographer. Technically he was brilliant and he approached his work as art, not piece-work.

Posted by: Protoguy at July 26, 2011 6:21 AM

Terry Richardson is a bloody hack. I hate his work in all manners and forms, but then again, he delivers what Hollywood wants: the wax in which you polish your poles. The only controversy here is that he continues to get work.

Posted by: duckandcover at July 26, 2011 7:49 AM

Firstly. Most if this is NOT Fashion photography. It is celebrity photography with a bit of fashion maybe thrown in.

Secondly, Terry Richardson is a bit sleazy but he is the posterboy for hipster photography. He pioneered the use of old crappy cameras with crappy lenses to get interesting effects that the modern digital gurus frown at. For that you have to give him kudo's. He took what Teller did in the 90's and took it further and more consumable. Ok, a lot of his photoshoots did end up in fullblown orgies but that is neither here nor there.

he is not to my taste but then i am a fan of Meisel, who most of the peeps on this site will also denounce as a hack. Taste differ, vive la difference!

Posted by: stofjas at July 26, 2011 10:44 AM

Thank you so much for sharing!

Posted by: DJ Taylor Made at August 3, 2011 12:37 PM

For the events in Norway mental healthiness is a vital issue if we want to continue to keep society democratic and also open.

Posted by: Norway mental health at August 5, 2011 7:44 AM