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Same Old Song and Dance


Food, Inc. / Brian Prisco

Film Reviews | June 16, 2009 | Comments (30)


A couple months ago, Disney released Disney’s Earth, which was basically the BBC series “Planet Earth” repackaged for stupid children who like baby ducks falling in slow motion. It wasn’t new footage, it wasn’t even extra footage. It was just animals with the soothing sounds of nature enthusiast Darth Earl Jones, and another excuse to show an elephant getting fucked up by a pride of lions. Food, Inc., a documentary by Robert Kenner, does essentially the same thing. It’s a mash up of Eric Schlosser’s Fast Food Nation and Michael Pollen’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma, featuring blurbs from both food fighters, wrapped up with the same arguments we’ve been hearing. Factory farming is bad, the government doesn’t do anything about it, fast food makes you fat and deaderer. It lauds organic foods, local farming and seasonal menus. The big name food production companies still aren’t talking to men with cameras, so we don’t get anything new on that front. It’s still a bunch of hippies telling us corn’s the devil, high fructose corn syrup will fuck your mother, and we all need to run tell it on the Hill to our congressmen, because they represent the people’s best interest. At this point, you either know this, or you don’t give a shit. I say, can’t it be both?

There’s a moment in the film that sums up the situation perfectly. A mother goes to her congresswoman and tells her the story of how her two-year-old son died from tainted meat. On the way, the two women get lost in the building. Finally, they arrive. We get shots of the baby boy playing in the water, eating at a picnic table, voiced over by the mother telling a gut-wrenching tale. At the end, the congresswoman hugs the mother and tells her that if they have a hearing, she wants her to tell her tale. And they leave. With nothing changed. It’s all a bunch of pats on the back and hugging and talking with nothing actually being done. This same mother is not allowed to go on camera and publicly state that she no longer eats hamburgers because her toddler died from “potentially tainted meat” because the meat companies can sue her. But she’s probably being paranoid. Right, Oprah?

I know I sound like I’m being extremely cynical, but I don’t see the point in showing us more footage of the vast cattle factories and hidden camera shots of the poor conditions in slaughterhouses. We understand our meat products are bad. We know. Change has already been made. When Wal-Mart decided to refuse to sell dairy products that used bovine growth hormone and all the major food production companies went out to snatch up organic labels, we’re moving in the right direction. We know we should all be planting gardens and shopping at farmer’s markets. We know. Dammit, we know. Tell us what we already know isn’t educating, it’s catechizing.

The problem is the rest of the country. Most people don’t have the time, inclination, or money to purchase healthy foods. They know they should be eating veggies instead of Fritos and chili pie, but they just don’t give a damn. Taking a book and turning it into a movie that’s only playing in limited theaters where the hippies already know this stuff isn’t going to make them aware of the problem. Food, Inc. is preaching to the choir, and it’s the same goddamn sermon, which is why people aren’t bothering going to the church anymore.

The nicest thing I can say for Kenner is that he isn’t attacking the big market organics like Whole Foods and Wal-Mart. Granted, most “organic” foods aren’t really organic, and they aren’t the best option. But to solve the problem, we need to take small steps. Not everyone in the country is going to be able to purchase grass-fed beef from local farms. But if people vote with their dollars not to buy stuff that was processed in corporate factories or that was fed growth hormones, the companies will find other ways to process the meat. We should have proper labeling on our foods, telling us where the foods came from, whether that’s another country or from the meat of cloned animals.

The system is screwed up, and it needs to be changed, but making a documentary isn’t going to get the word out to the people who need to hear it. Food, Inc. is that warm smug self-satisfaction that comes with having a Trader Joe’s reuseable bag full of five dollar tomatoes. It’s that pat on the back and wink that hipsters pushing strollers around farmer’s markets buying four dollar cartons of eggs to give to each other. It’s a good message, but we’ve heard it all before. From the very guys you’re filming. So shut up or blow up a Wendy’s already. Or go to www.takepart.com/foodinc to find out what you can do to change. Or keep eating fat, fatty.

Brian Prisco lives in a pina down by the mer-port of Burbank, by way of the cheesesteak-laden arteries of Philadelphia. Any and all grumblings can be directed to priscogospel at hotmail dot com.


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Comments

Ummm, delicious lard sandwiches.

Posted by: Tracer Bullet at June 16, 2009 4:30 PM

Man, I owe you a flame broiled, batter dipped, deep fried, half pound burger with eight pieces of thick cut bacon, a fried egg on top and smothered in chili and Hidden Valley Ranch... Nice review for a flick that didn't need to be made.

Posted by: Skitz at June 16, 2009 4:30 PM

As someone who really does buy into the organic hoopla (and affordably so with my veggie box share from a local farm), I have to say I laughed out loud on Sunday when I read a piece in the NYT from a guy who has been re-evaluating his expenditures because of a pay-cut. Apparently, he used to think nothing of spending $14 per gallon of milk and $57 on a chicken from his local Farmer's Market. WTF???

Posted by: PaddyDog at June 16, 2009 4:34 PM

$57 chicken? That beast better have had like 34 breasts or 42 legs or something.

Posted by: Mrcreosote at June 16, 2009 4:42 PM

This doc sounds a lot like those stupid anti smoking ads.

Posted by: John W at June 16, 2009 4:53 PM

Thank you, Prisco. I'm a local food supporter, and I believe in paying more for something I believe in (though I ain't buying no $57 chicken even if it hatched from an egg that popped out of Jesus's ass). But now I'm broke, thanks to various factors beyond my control, and back to eating regular supermarket food-and I would LOVE to have some accurate labeling/dating regulations. I mean for serious, there are often three or four labels on one package of chicken in my grocery store, one on top of the other. I live in a fairly poor neighborhood and I think that's BS.

However, NY residents can now use WIC at farmer's markets! That's gotta be good for something.

Posted by: Cara at June 16, 2009 5:01 PM

It's stuff like this that makes me not want to tell people I'm vegetarian. They always want to discuss (i.e. fight) this with me and I don't care. Survival of the fittest. That's what I say.

What was I meaning to say, oh yeah? There was an article in my local paper about a lady who every two months does a "master cleanse" where she eats nothing for 10 days. What she does do is drink water, maple syrup and laxitive tea for that 10 days. The article reported that health officials say this is very unhealthy, but the lady SWEARS it helps her loose weight. I almost burst my spleen laughing.

Posted by: BWeaves at June 16, 2009 5:16 PM

It probably does lose her some weight - too bad her body's cannibalising its own muscles and such to do so! Has she already reproduced, or is this a future Darwin Award candidate?

Posted by: lordhelmet at June 16, 2009 5:23 PM

Nicely done Prisco. I, for one, don't but into the whole organic label since the regulation really isn't there. I have a lot of organic farmers in my municipality and, quite frankly, they're full of shit. For example: Farmer 1 buys seed from Farmer 2. Farmer 2 is not organic and never has been. Farmer one then either grows and sells or just sells said grain as organic. (after an appropriate mark-up)

Totally legal.

Posted by: admin at June 16, 2009 5:26 PM

Cara:

Check into the farms that do box shares (search for CSA or "community supported agriculture") in your area. Many of them are affordable if you find a few people to share with you and also several of them in my area offer a share to people who can't afford it in exchange for working on the farm for a few weekends at harvest time.

Posted by: PaddyDog at June 16, 2009 5:27 PM

Of course it helps her loose weight. She's friggin' starving. I'd be surprised if she didn't loose weight. It was the way the article was written, like she discovered this fantastic diet that really works.

Posted by: BWeaves at June 16, 2009 5:50 PM

It's the maple syrup. Canada is sitting on a gold mine and we don't even know it. The Maple Syrup Diet, I'll be rich!

Posted by: admin at June 16, 2009 5:57 PM

Oy, I hope this doesn't reignite the fray when this book was reviewed. New thing to fuss over: it's LOSE weight, not LOOSE weight. People want to lose weight so their clothes will be loose. I tell my ninth graders to remember it's one "o" because you don't want to lose something twice. If you're going to make fun of someone doing a Master Cleanse, at least spell shit correctly!

Posted by: Ariel at June 16, 2009 6:21 PM

That cleanse, btw works. How it works, see, is every last little bit of waste matter (read: SHIT) sitting around in your colon, hiding behind those polyps is ripped from their hiding spots and expunged from the body in a torrent of... well I should stop right there..... You totally do loose weight. Of course, the weight is the lingering excrement in your intestines, not fat from your flabby ass..... But still!!!

And hey. For a day or two, everyone else is full of shit and you're not!!!

Posted by: Janey at June 16, 2009 6:39 PM

BWeaves, I have a friend who "cleanses" regularly. She describes it as a spiritual experience, and frequently goes longer than the ten days because, she says, she feels sooo good doing it that she doesn't "need" to eat. She is also in a cult, with a Supreme Master and everything. Not that there is any connection.

Posted by: Mulva at June 16, 2009 7:06 PM

It's documentaries like this that make me want to go down to a food court, head to the nearest McDonalds, order two large combo number 4's, go to the Dunkin Doughnuts afterwards, eat 6 Coconut doughnuts with a large coffee for desert, then wash it down with illegal moonshine, and spend the next day taking the worlds largest dump on the lawn of one of those granola eating, beret wearing assholes.

But that's just me.

Posted by: George at June 16, 2009 8:04 PM

As a yoga teacher and a general health-foodie, I'm reluctant to get into the discussion because you're all going to think I'm the one hiding your hamburger.

I will say this though: if you don't know the food you eat is shit, it's your own damn fault. It's like the smoker who whines to his congressman that the evil tobacco companies brainwashed him, when they've only been putting warning labels on cigarette cartons for the past, what, thirty years, and not to mention he wakes up every morning and coughs half a carton of malignant lung tissue into his bathroom sink.

Point being, when you eat good food regularly you can taste the chemicals in the other kind of food. You don't have to be a vegetarian or vegan or a raw foodist or a fruitarian or whatever. Just eat less of better quality. You'll learn to avoid the mass-produced corporate soylent green because you recognize it tastes of chemicals (and people).

I've cleansed a couple of times -- it seemed like a good idea knowing about all the leftover dreck hanging around my colon. First, it's not that bad of an experience. You just get a little hungry. Second, you feel great after, and you definitely lose weight. Third, whatever you eat after you go off the cleanse tastes twice as good as you can imagine (even if you can imagine quiet a bit).

Fourth, to anyone who talks about wishing to get into shape or eat healthier or whatever while they're chowing down a double chili cheese whopper with extra fries, you can casually and pointedly mention that by the way, you once went half a month without eating. No need to smirk or be smug. You can just bask in the self-apparent glow of your own inarguable superiority.

Of course, if you don't also do yoga you're still living in a world of self-delusion. Loser.

Posted by: Neodiogenes at June 16, 2009 10:20 PM

George your dump would be a hell of a lot bigger if you replaced all that beef and starch with things that are green and less processed. Just sayin'.

Posted by: M at June 16, 2009 11:24 PM

I, uh, also just finished a cleanse and I'm going back for more. Just so you know how judgmental to be, I did the mild stuff - where you take herbal caplets, drink metric fucktons of water, and eat food, just a bit less and of higher quality.

After, I felt pretty damn good. The hard part is just preparing the good stuff (wasn't too bad price-wise but I live in Hippieland) and drinking the water. I won't be doing the 'Secret Starvation Cleanse' mentioned above though. That's for assholes with nothing better to do than lounge around and watch their BM's. (Ew.)

I am gonna go full tilt because I found a serious gut buster plan for free online, and it makes sense and includes plenty of food so I figured why not? Small investment in longevity and fighting the middle age spread and hormonal wack-a-doo I'm going through.

And the food I do eat now tastes unreal. So good! And me and my brother both modeled in the Kraft Dinner Kids campaign as kids. I know the allure, but I'm ready to move on.

Posted by: replica at June 17, 2009 12:04 AM

Another fantastic review, Prisco.

Posted by: figgy at June 17, 2009 12:54 AM

While I don't totally disagree that the movie is preaching to the choir and does not offer much new information to those familiar with the subject, I think your review does it a real disservice. Reading your review, one gets the impression that the film is basically a self righteous lecture on why you should eat organic and local food. In fact, it explores the political, economic, and agribusiness forces behing modern day food production.

Yes, if you've read Fast Food Nation and The Omnivore's Dilemma, you might find parts of the film repetitive. But I think many people would be surprised to learn that certain companies actively recruit in Mexico because they are so hard pressed to find employees for their slaughterhouses. The government turns a blind eye to these hiring pracitices and in exchange, the company turns over a percentage of the illegal immigrants it employs.

What about the fact that in 1996, Monsanto introduced Round-Up Ready soybeans that were genetically modified to be able to survive when Round-Up was sprayed over crops. The Supreme Court, in a decision written by Clarence Thomas, a former Monsanto attorney, upheld Monsanto’s patent of these soybeans. Now 90% of the soybeans in the US are these GMO Round-Up Ready Monsanto seeds. Monsanto aggressively sues other small farmers for “cleaning their own seeds.” They are not only put out of business, but blacklisted in their community.

Or what about the fact that government subsidies artifically drive down the cost of fast food, and lower income families choose to eat it even though they have desire to eat better but can't afford it? I'm not talking about buying organic or local, I'm talking about buying pears from the supermarket. When they're 99 cents a pound and you have $11 to feed four people, you're going to choose something that's cheap and fills you up. Children born after the year 2000 (no Conan jokes, please) have a one in three chance of developing type 2 diabetes. In minorities, the risk jumps to one in two. 50%! A 50% chance of developing a preventable, dangerous disease. It's unreal that that's the state of our society, and it's all our own doing.

So forgive me for disagreeing that the message of the movie is pointless just because "nothing's actually being done." Yeah, it will take a lot for change to happen, and when it does, it will be driven by consumer demand (as in the case of the WalMart example you mentioned). And how do you generate consumer demand? With awareness, which is the goal of this movie. Just my two cents- I think it would be a shame to pass up this informative, interesting movie because it's been portrayed as food for self righteous, $5 dollar tomato buying hippies.

Posted by: Julie at June 17, 2009 11:23 AM

...The Supreme Court, in a decision written by Clarence Thomas, a former Monsanto attorney, upheld Monsanto’s patent of these soybeans...

You write this like there was an agenda by Judge Thomas. I didn't read the books or see the movie and I don't know this case but if it truly was a patent case than the only issue was whether Monsanto had patented an original idea, not whether such a product was useful or desirable. That seems solely to be a matter of law.

If the point is that big business runs agriculture this paragraph sort of leads you there in a roundabout way, but it seems unnecessary and rabble-rousing to me.

Posted by: ed newman at June 17, 2009 3:53 PM

It's kind of a serious problem to my mind, ed newman, when it looks like about 80% of our food is genemod at this point. I might not know that for fact, but what information is available is more than a little upsetting.

None of these companies are in the business of nutrition - they are in the business of shelf life. It's just fine if you don't care, but if you do - there's a legal wall a million miles high that will prevent you from even knowing what you've bought and what its quality is. We're pretty mad at China's missteps, why not our own agriculture business?

They still sell cigarettes, but they have labels. Your low-quality, overheated, enzyme free, snout-inclusive foods can't be labeled, according to law.

Posted by: replica at June 18, 2009 5:08 AM

I don't know what any of that has to do with my comment, replica. I don't disagree with your point about right to know. But my main concern was that including a paragraph that is an inferred slight against Judge Thomas and castigates Monsanto for defending their patented idea detracts from the worthwhile message that there are things being done with our food that most don't realize. It is an attempt to sway opinion based on people's dislike and fear of big corporations rather than the facts.

Posted by: ed newman at June 18, 2009 9:47 AM

No, it's a valid point. And I do agree that food should and needs to be labeled as to where it's coming from and what it contains. And I find seed patenting ridiculous. But the point I've been making with the review is that, we already know this. Or if you didn't, well now you do, and it's still not going to alter your opinion on the matter. I'm not saying that people shouldn't be aware of the way the system works against us. I'm saying that we know the system is fucked up, making a movie that's only going to be seen by a select few people -- people who are already against the system -- isn't going to advocate change. It's worse than preaching to the choir, it's preaching to the choir practice.

And, ed newman, I'm on your side on this, but the fact of the matter is, the big corporations are the ones fucking this stuff up. Monsanto patented a seed, and is now using it's massive amounts of dollars to force farmers to use their patented seeds. When the seeds naturally disperse and spread, the patented seeds end up mixed in on farms where farmers never intended them to grow. And now, Monsanto can sue them for using their "patented product". It's totally bullshit. But it's also old news. They've been doing this for decades.

In the documentary, they point out that most of the politicians who are responsible for policing the industry are former -- or in some instances future -- executives at the big corporations. Thomas was a Monsanto attorney, and then he wrote the brief on the decision to defend the patent case. It's shady and suspicious, and one of the better parts of the doc.

Posted by: insertclevernamehere at June 18, 2009 10:01 AM

I guess I'll have to see the movie. In my experience you can't force someone to use your product, you can only force them to stop using a knockoff. Suing them for using seeds inadvertently seems shady and highly unlikely to be successful unless you could prove farmers made no reasonable attempt to prevent the drift onto their properties. Nevertheless I recognize that the process of bringing the issue to court in and of itself could be a means to control the small farmer.

But before we go and crucify the big corporations consider the projections for the world populations over the next 50 years and ask yourself if you'd prefer to clear the amount of land it will require to feed all these new mouths or if it's better to get more out of current arable land. The big corporations are responsible for much more than just fucking things up, they are responsible for improving yields and farming practices as well.

Posted by: ed newman at June 18, 2009 11:09 AM

I read a book with a similar message to this movie a few years ago. I've been a vegetarian ever since and never looked back. If you aren't swayed by the stories of tremendous animal cruelty and bioengineering, then perhaps you would be swayed by the terrible working conditions most low-wage factory employees are subjected to. It's an absolutely revolting and dangerous way to make a living. I know that removing myself from the factory farming system is a minor impact on their profits, but since I've been able to influence a few others to do the same, perhaps one day it will snowball into something they'll notice; a major loss in revenue, even with their abusive cost-cuts.

Posted by: BLA at June 18, 2009 10:34 PM

My understanding of "organic" is that it is about how you treat the soil the food grows in, and how you go about pest control and fertilizer, not where you buy the seeds. Seeds are seeds, unless genetically modified - which is a separate issue from being organic.

Posted by: Eva at June 22, 2009 10:21 AM

I like your opinion. Really, there's no need for information or enlightenment. Because it's just a boring endless and bugging repetion of what we want to ignore.

We don't want to know, and we don't want to see.

The best of it is, the Americans are killing themselves.
I absolutely love it this way. Keep on going.

Posted by: YourWorstEnemy at June 25, 2009 11:58 AM

you're also forgetting that the people who do need to learn this stuff will NEVER watch a documentary film...

Posted by: JB at June 30, 2009 9:24 PM