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Cannonball Read III: Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer

By Beckells | Posted Under Book Reviews | Comments (20)



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Seven out of eight professionals agree: I heart the Krakauer. There is not so much a bias as an admiration for what he’s accomplished through writing and research, despite the controversy he has stirred in the context of both.

The tragedy depicted in Into Thin Air is one that is marginally familiar to most people; 1996 was an unfortunate year to be climbing Mount Everest.

I had never made it through the entire book, though I’ve owned a copy for about 9 years. But when Under the Banner of Heaven came out a while back, I read it cover to cover in about 2 days, enthralled by the subject matter because of Krakauer’s distinctly abrupt and “Just the facts, ma’am” style.

The same applies to this work, but it comes with the shadow of rumor around it. While non-fiction based on religion or any event that has emotions tied to it will never satisfy all, Krakauer has come under specific accusations from others present on the mountain that year—of bad mouthing others and glossing over his own difficulties. And while I don’t think that he delves as deeply into his own personality flaws as much as those around him (the physical is another story), the reader has to remember two things.

First, he was present as a reporter giving a first-hand account of the experience of climbing Everest and everything that comes with that—judging those around you against your own expectations of what is appropriate and right, as well as, what you think they are capable of. Judgemental analysis and opinion in an account of a personal experience are not only unavoidable, they should be expected. Second, this book was written less than 6 months following a harrowing experience during which several people died, and one of whom it is quite obvious Krakauer feels responsible for.

He has no qualms in admitting that not only did he make a mistake regarding a fellow climber, he reported a false event before the truth became known to him. That mistake may have cost a man his life, a father and husband, and cost Krakauer the respect of people he considered peers in both the climbing and publishing worlds.

The existence of these points of discussion are a credit to Krakauer and his book; the man can tell a story, and wind his facts through it without them seeming shoved in by a copywriter in a closet somewhere. It is a talent a lot of non-fiction can lack. The disputes made against his account and what was reported both in his book and the original magazine article, only serve to emphasize discussion and examination, something that a good writer always wants for his story. Attention to the story is attention to the event; whether or not you think he was fair in his descriptions will only provide you with a closer view of the ordeal, and I like to think that while he no longer allows anyone to question him on the disaster, Krakauer would appreciate additional perspectives.

Like I said, 7 out of 8. And I’m pretty sure the 8th was just jealous.


For more of Beckells’ reviews, check out her blog, getontothenext.

This review is part of Cannonball Read III. For more information, click here.









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Comments

Love this book. I get cold just thinking about it.

Posted by: Julie at March 7, 2011 10:30 AM

One of the most amazing books I've ever read. I couldn't put it down. Every harrowing mountain story I read or watch is automatically compared to it, and all ultimately fall short. That each year hundreds of people flock to what will possibly be their deaths, or to some only amputations of frozen dead body parts remains just incredible to me. Some may come back with their bodies intact, but nobody comes back whole, especially after seeing your friends dying or dead, and knowing that trying to help them will lead you down the same path. I cannot comprehend that level of insanity.

Posted by: EJ at March 7, 2011 10:33 AM

I read Into Thin Air about a decade ago while staying at a friend's house. I asked if she had something I could borrow to help lull me to sleep at night, and she said she had just finished this book about Everest, if I wanted to try that. Boy -- was she wrong! I read the whole thing in two days. It didn't lull me to sleep -- not at all -- but I was very glad I'd read it.
If you're a Krakauer fan, then you have to -- HAVE TO -- read Under the Banner of Heaven. Unless you're a Mormon and don't want to get angry. Actually, if you're a Mormon, I think you absolutely SHOULD read Under the Banner of Heaven. (After all, Krakauer isn't writing about temple-going folk in this book.)

Posted by: Tira at March 7, 2011 10:39 AM

This book completely changed my perspective of high altitude mountain climbing. I used to think these people were really admirable and almost heroic for what they did. But the book (intentionally or not) really exposes the ugly side of things. You think of a pristine mountain with a few driven people climbing to the summit to take in the glory of the surroundings but the reality is long queues of people waiting to go up while others are coming down, the pressure to take unqualified climbers because they pay well, and the litter of empty oxygen canisters and equipment at the top of Everest. Everest has become a filthy dumpster site that services people's egos.

Posted by: PaddyDog at March 7, 2011 10:46 AM

I love this book so much I bought it twice. I gave my paperback to a friend after I bought a hardcover, expanded and illustrated edition a number of years ago, which I reread every couple of years. I highly recommend it.

The thing that always struck me about the controversy surrounding Krakauer's account of the events, is the impossibility of there being an impartial and objective observer under those conditions. Everybody on the mountain, from the most experienced guides, to the dilettantes paying those guides to haul their asses to the top, were operating at the limits of their capabilities, as well as dealing with sleep deprivation and altitude sickness to varying degrees. I can understand that people in the climbing community are pissed with Krakauer for breaking the "we don't talk about tragedies" rule, but I'm glad he did, because this story needed to be told.

Posted by: Groundloop at March 7, 2011 10:50 AM

This book started me on a year-long Everest obsession. I read everything I could get my hands on about it, and dreamed about going there myself. Never so foolish as to think I would or could ever summit, but I still would like to at least see the thing.

I'll definitely have to check out Under the Banner of Heaven. Thanks for the recommendation.

Posted by: Captain Tuttle at March 7, 2011 11:09 AM

I have an odd obsession with Mount Everest, and in particular this story. I think I am very puzzled by the fact that people are willing to die trying to conquer this mountain. This will be added to my must read list.

Posted by: Jadine at March 7, 2011 11:14 AM

A more balanced, clinical and expert book on the 1996 Everest climb is "The Climb" by Anatoli Boukreev.
Had it not been for Boukreev, many more would have died on Everest that day, and yet he never blows his own horn or portrays himself with undue humility, unlike Krakauer.
They are interesting books to read back to back.

Posted by: brite at March 7, 2011 11:16 AM

Into Thin Air is a riveting read. Kraukauer writes well and he doesn't faff about much. For me the best thing about his account is that it so clearly highlights the fact that Everest and all the other 8,000m peaks are not for anyone bar the most experienced climbers. Sadly summiting has become somewhat of a cash cow that is being well and truly milked. Kraukauer has many a time pointed out the cash aspect in arguments with fellow climbers from that fateful day, but he also was being paid to climb and was he himself experienced enough to summit Everest? I enjoy his style of writing. I just take what he writes with a pinch of salt.

Posted by: peanut at March 7, 2011 11:17 AM

For fans of Into Thin Air or Everest I recommend watching "Everest: Beyond the Limit". It was a 3 season reality show documenting a 3 groups of climbers as they attempted to summit. The first season is the best, but they are available on Netflix on demand. Worth watching and a great companion piece to Into Thin Air in seeing the places that are described as well as the danger and commercialization of the endeavour.

Posted by: TylerDFC at March 7, 2011 11:49 AM

Agreed TylerDFC. Beyond the Limit was an excellent series. I still have nightmares about the guy with altitude sickness who climbed and slept in his own diarrhea for three days.

Posted by: PaddyDog at March 7, 2011 12:30 PM

@Brite and for any others interested:

Though I have not read Boukreev's book, Outside Magazine published Kraukauer's original article, and with it several letters from Boukreev and Lopsang Sherpa where they defend their actions. I have to say they do not sound convincing. Kraukauer did exhausting interviews with those around him during the trip to Everest and spoke to many respected climbers and doctors as well in writing his follow-up book to the article. He feels a true sense that he probably contributed to the demise of another climber and absolutely feels awful that friends have died. Bourkeev and Lopsang Sherpa, both still guides at the time, show little remorse, and deflect any and all blame away from themselves. I ask you, which sounds more sincere? Boukreev states he went back to be ready to ascend again to help if needed, but had he stayed would help have been needed? And his response sounds terribly untrue when considering Kraukauer's statement that nobody has ever tried to climb back up after summit-ting earlier the same day. Kraukauer mentions the several incidents where Boukreev was reprimanded for leaving the clients behind, oftentimes far behind, and the fact that supplemental oxygen would have allowed him to stay and help, things Boukreev cannot easily explain away. Lopsang as well defends himself, accepting no blame for any of the tragic events and defending his decision to not use oxygen, something that would kept both of the men much more clear-headed. Neither come off trust-worthy, in my opinion. However, the interactions between these men in letter form are additional bits of insight into this terrible business. They are available here: http://outsideonline.com/outside/destinations/199609/199609_into_thin_air_1.html

Posted by: EJ at March 7, 2011 1:42 PM

Pretty much agreed with everyone that Into Thin Air is a masterpiece in the non-fiction genre. While I don't think it quite measures up to Into The Wild, it's certainly one of Krakauer's best.

I always found it interesting that most of the disputes to Krakauer's account of the disaster came from those trying to protect their own business interests. The guides and expedition companies obviously have more to lose by admitting guilt. People like Beck Weathers who wrote "Left for Dead" supported most of what Krakauer wrote in the book.

Posted by: Brian K at March 7, 2011 2:30 PM

I just finished this one and I agree that it was an excellent read. I am already halfway through Into the Wild and it seems that I will have to read Under the Banner of Heaven too.

Posted by: Alli at March 7, 2011 3:15 PM

I'm a big fan of Krakauer's. I've read four of his books and enjoyed them all. He's a fantastic action writer. But anyone who reads his work and thinks he remains anywhere near neutral in his reporting of "facts", is simply not paying close enough attention. He tells his stories with a very specific slant and nothing makes him deviate from that perspective. Like any good storyteller, he develops "good" guys and "bad" guys, and the facts are massaged to fit this viewpoint.

Posted by: James S at March 7, 2011 3:26 PM

I think one of the things that really struck me about Into Thin Air was how brutal Krakauer was to others - and also to himself. I didn't think he cut himself any slack, or paint himself as a hero. I was pretty unimpressed with his latest effort on Pat Tilman - what did anyone else think on that one?

Posted by: danielle at March 7, 2011 5:08 PM

love all his books. if i had to pick a favorite, then it has to be into the wild.

Posted by: splinter at March 7, 2011 5:41 PM

For the past several years I've been much more into reading nonfiction than fiction, and Krakauer is one of my absolute favorite authors. But to answer @danielle - I wasn't especially impressed by "Where Men Win Glory" either. Part of it may have to do with my lack of interest/knowledge of the military - I couldn't keep any of the action in Iraq and Afghanistan straight because I don't know the first thing about any of the weapons or rankings or equipment he's always talking about in the second part of the book. But I also thought there was a lot of unnecessary editorializing. I hate that dipshit Bush as much as the next bleeding heart liberal, and what the administration did with Pat's story was despicable, but did we really need a rehash of the 2000 election? How was that relevant?

Posted by: abaybay at March 7, 2011 8:54 PM

I'm so excited that this book has been featured on Pajiba.

I first read "Into Thin Air" when I was in grade 8 and subsequently became deeply enthralled in the events that took place in 1996. Krakauer's account is tragic, and it's true, by the end of the book you realize just how much pain he feels over what happened, the mistakes he made and the wrongs he'll never be able to right.

EJ, when I read Boukreev's "The Climb" I felt very much the same way as you did in regards to his letters to Outside Magazine. His book is certainly devoid of any sort of emotion, but I think that's more to do with who Boukreev was as a person and not about what actually happened. I really believe it's worth your time to read the book if you want to see the situation from both sides.

I found Boukreev's account slightly more credible only because it was a little more technically sound than Krakauer's book, and I think that has to do more with climbing experience than anything else. Boukreev was an exceptionally experienced mountain climber and therefore, I believe, less susceptible to the climbing conditions that day.

And yeah, props to "Under the Banner of Heaven". Great book. I also feel the same way about "Into the Wild" though for argument's sake, I think his approach is a lot more biased.

Posted by: citizen_cris at March 7, 2011 11:23 PM

Into Thin Air is one of my favorite books. Krakauer has defended his account of the events of that day. Given the conditions on the mountain, the sheer amount of disagreement is completely understandable. I have not read Boukreev's book, but I will. I like Krakauer's writing style.

Another person on the mountain that day was Ed Viesturs. He wrote a book about his personal quest for the 14 8000 meter peaks without supplemental oxygen. In it, he talks about Everest 1996. It's a nice counterpoint to Krakauer's account.

Everest: Beyond the Limit was a great, great show.

Posted by: Melody at March 12, 2011 7:13 PM