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100 Books in One Year #49: The Omnivore’s Dilemma by Michael Pollan

Cannonball Read / Brian Prisco

Book Reviews | March 2, 2009 | Comments (45)


Food is good. But where it comes from isn’t.

That’s sort of the message of the frightening tome by Michael Pollan, where he explores the state of farming and agriculture in America. Essentially, Pollan tracks four meals through different means, exploring different ways of procuring foods.

The first is a study of fast food and by dint, factory farming. Corn is KING! If you didn’t know this, you do now. Corn is responsible for 65-80 percent of all goods in grocery stores. From byproducts produced from corn and corn derivatives, to feed corn stuffed unnaturally into ruminants (thems cows) or chickens and pigs to make meat, to petroleum, corn is in EVERYTHING. You gotta love a guy who stuffs a McDonald’s meal into a mass spectrometer to figure out how much corn went into the making of a not-so-happy meal.

By now, saying factory farming is disgusting is like trying to preach Jesus to people. Either they believe it, or they just don’t care and don’t want to hear about it anymore. Having been a recent convert to the world of organics, it was the second portion of the novel, where he talks about the lie of organic foods, that was stunning. While there are genuinely some farms that produce completely organic foods — without any illicit chemicals and without destroying the earth — the USDA has pretty much set it up so that Whole Foods is a ponzi scheme for stupid hippies (sigh, like me) who fall for the supermarket poetry on the labels. For example, while many eggs and chicken breast say “free-range,” according to current standards, this could mean they were also raised in a tiny shed with cramped quarters five months, and then given two weeks of an open door leading to a tiny yard before they are slaughtered. Many free-range animals never see the light of day.

I loved reading about Polyface Farm in Swoope, Virgina, where they essentially practice organic farming in the truest sense. Grass is grown naturally, which the cows then eat. The cows poop and leave. Then chickens are let in to eat the bugs and stuff out of the cow patties, as well as the remaining grass the cows have chewed down to their levels. Then the grass regrows, even more lush and nutrient rich than before, thanks to the nitrogen in the chicken poop. Circle of life. Except where the chickens are slaughtered in an outdoor open-air slaughterhouse.

The last portion of the book deals with Pollan trying to procure an entire meal himself through hunting and gathering. Aside from being virtually impossible and overly complicated to do on a daily basis, it was pretty fascinating reading about him hunting wild boar to make boar proscuitto (tell me that doesn’t sound like the best damn thing you will ever eat) as well as gathering fresh mushrooms and harvesting his own garden for produce.

Almost everything I read these days smacks of “big government is bad” and how much they are hurting the common man in the name of big corporate kickbacks. What was refreshing about Pollan was that while he’s absolutely advocating this lifestyle of seasonal menus, local farm support, and more responsible agriculture, he also recognizes that this isn’t something that is easy to accomplish or reasonable without a nation/worldwide change in behaviors.

My goal in life is to move to a nice piece of property where I can grow my own orchard and garden. To the point where my girlfriend and I have discovered the website “fallenfruit.org”, which maps out all the public fruit trees you can harvest thanks to the legal principle of usufruct — which basically means if a tree falls on public property, all its’ fruit can be harvested by anyone. And since it maps Sherman Oaks, we’re pretty much making free fruit salads.

This review is part of the Cannonball Read series. Details are here and the growing number of participants and their blogs are here.









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Comments

I read this last summer and I really enjoyed reading the first three quarters of the book. The hunter/gatherer section, though, just reeked of yuppie fussiness that was pretty hard to stomach. All in all, a pretty fascinating read, though.

Posted by: Nate at March 2, 2009 9:15 AM

I wish everyone could read this book, it's potentially a life-changer. Nice brief review too, although I disagree that when "chickens are slaughtered in an outdoor open-air slaughterhouse" it's not part of the circle of life.

These chickens are domestic animals, raised for the sole purpose of producing food (eggs) and being turned into food. Their lives at Polyface were, for a chicken, the high life, not only for them but also for their environment, right up to the point where their throats were cut and they died instantly. Stuffing chickens into tiny cages, clipping their beaks, collecting their shit in giant lagoons -- THAT isn't part of the circle of life.

Posted by: Chris at March 2, 2009 9:24 AM

Oh no, I'm a gullible hippie yuppie who shops at whole foods! This is one of those things where my heart says the more I know about where my food comes from the better, but my brain says the less I know the better, because the know is disgusting and will make me want to never eat food again.

Posted by: Marra at March 2, 2009 9:25 AM

Bah. Fuck chickens. A flock of wild chickens can skeletonize a man in less than seven minutes. You get your hands on a chicken you bit the shit out of it and say, "You'll never devour another human child, you feathered bastard."

Posted by: Tracer Bullet at March 2, 2009 9:26 AM

Sigh...yet another Bush legacy that will take too many years and countless additional hours of effort to overturn since it didn't get done right the first time. Yes, the current USDA "organic" program is a big agribusiness-written joke (thanks, Ann Veneman!). I eat as much frankenfood as the next American urbanite, but it really pisses me off that I can't trust the "organic" label if or when I do choose to look for it. Having to go the extra mile-and-a-half to search out locally sourced food isn't a bad exercise in and of itself (and I'm fortunate to live near a good, locally owned and sourced truly organic grocery), but having to do battle with the dragons of institutional chicanery along the way does not need to be part of the equation.

The message I take away from all of this is that who writes the regulations really does matter. Integrity is not the sole province of any one social group or political party, but letting corporations "self-regulate" is always a colossal mistake.

Posted by: Che Grovera at March 2, 2009 9:27 AM

This was an eye-opener for me as well -- the depth and reach of corn in our diet goes well beyond tortilla chips, and most of it is hidden in items you'd never consider unless you made a point to look. For instance, the first ingredient listed on my coffee creamer is something called "corn syrup solids".

The author's tone bugged, though. A little too smug. Whether that was his natural voice, or he was consciously writing for the pat-themselves-on-the-back crowd, I don't know. But I gave up prior to his "ultimate meal" chapters because of it. I'm sure I'll get back to it one day.

Posted by: sansho1 at March 2, 2009 9:28 AM

If you want to make sure your food comes from a good source, check out certifiedhumane.com. They give you a list of products that have been inspected for humane treatement of animals. And you sacrifice nothing Applegate Farms certified humane sunday bacon is the yummiest bacon I have ever tasted.

Posted by: PaddyDog at March 2, 2009 9:52 AM

What's the deal with free range? Are we trying to protect the chickens' feelings before we kill them and eat them?

Posted by: Mr. Tusks at March 2, 2009 10:22 AM

Also check Animal Vegetable Miracle - a great book about local farming and definitely an eye opener for me.

Sadly, we're into year two of an extreme drought in Texas, which means my 'veggie garden' is pretty much a bunch of dried sticks (although the herbs are doing great, thanks, including my English Mint that went truly rogue and has taken over my flower bed!). But we're still going to try to grow some of our own veggies this spring/summer and are praying to rain gods to come visit Austin!

Posted by: Stella at March 2, 2009 10:28 AM

What's the deal with free range? Are we trying to protect the chickens' feelings before we kill them and eat them?

Yes, and no, Mr. Tusks.

Confining animals to smaller living spaces makes them more susceptible to diseases and also the stresses of living in an "unnatural" manner. So in the sense that happy birds are healthy birds, yes, free range chickens should be healthier animals and not need routine treatments with antibiotics and growth hormones.

There is truth to this, and I say this as someone who formerly worked with the broiler chicken industry.

However...a lot of the propaganda that the animal rights movement uses is *really* old stuff. I never once saw broiler chickens de-beaked. Not once. And I promise you, I saw a hell of a lot of chickens in my time, and this was over 20 years ago. So before you believe the "life of hell" literature that some (not all) groups promote, apply a common sense filter.

Farmers are not interested in torturing animals. There's no profit in it. Stressed animals don't gain as much weight or produce as much as non-stressed animals. If you're paying for antibiotics, your profit goes down by that cost. So it's a balancing act to try to give the birds what they need for optimum profit. They're flock animals, they don't each need a suite at the Ritz.

Posted by: Wednesday at March 2, 2009 10:37 AM

Having been a recent convert to the world of organics, it was the second portion of the novel, where....

A novel is a work of fiction. A non-fiction book, by definition, can not be a novel.

TMYK...

Posted by: DGM at March 2, 2009 10:43 AM

In addition to Wednesday's excellent comments, animals that are stressed develop meat that is less tender.

There are also different issues depending on the animal. Dairy cowa that are raised on a slab of concrete without free movement are also bred to produce more milk than they would naturally so on top of lsing all of the nutrients you would get from milk produced by grazing on grass, they are too heavy for their legs and are standing on an unyielding surface all day. This truly is cruel.

Posted by: PaddyDog at March 2, 2009 10:47 AM

I am in full support of better food. Why isn't that the prevailing argument for free range?

Calling treatment "inhumane" conjures up emotional images, suggesting that livestock have rights. Call it whatever you will, but raising an animal to ultimately kill it and eat it effectively precludes many (read: all) of that animal's "rights." If the "organic movement" used "It will be better food!" as it's battle cry, it would gain much more support; your points, Wednesday and PaddyDog, resonate much more with me than the typical "Those poor animals!" hippie-dippie "Meat is murder!" crowd, and I thank you for bringing them up. I have learned something from them.

Call me a selfish human, but telling me that organic and free-range food will benefit ME in the future as opposed to just the animals will better persuade me to spend more of my rapidly disappearing money on it. It seems to me that pro-organic and free-range arguments are more emotional and political, while they would be much more effective if they were "nutritional." I haven't read the book that is the subject of this review, so I can't comment on it's angle. I'm just saying that there is an assumption associated with the free range argument (maybe only with the organic ignorati, such as myself) that many of its proponents are happy to embrace as their central tenet.

On the other hand, there is a good chance that I am talking straight out of my ass.

Posted by: Mr. Tusks at March 2, 2009 11:19 AM

Seasonal eating is great if you live in a place that supports a nice variety of fruit and veg, but there are only so many root vegetables I can take before I need something else.

Posted by: WestCoastPat at March 2, 2009 11:20 AM

Mr. Tusks:

There is actually quite a lot of discussion of the different nutrient values between foods in Michael Pollan's book. In the corn section especially, he debunks the argument that it's okay to put high fructose corn syrup in everything (you've probably seen the commercials that tell you it's just natural). He shows how gram per gram high frustose corn syrup delivers far more sugar content into the body and is metabolized differently leading to a much higher risk of diabetes than even processed white sugar or raw cane sugar.
For the record, I do care very much that if I am going to eat the carcass of a living being, it should have been treated humanely during its lifetime: I believe all sentient beings deserve humane treatment. But I can see how the taste and nutrient argument might persuade others who don't care.

Posted by: PaddyDog at March 2, 2009 11:31 AM

If you've seen the conditions in slaughterhouses it has got to affect you, Mr. Tusks. Even if it's just a Wee bit.

Posted by: Optimus Rhyme at March 2, 2009 11:36 AM

I do care somewhat; of course I feel bad for animals that are treated poorly. I'm just more persuaded by the nutrition argument, and won't carry the standard for the emotional side when there is a more effective argument available.

Posted by: Mr. Tusks at March 2, 2009 11:40 AM

I didn't know a mass spectrometer was a real thing. I thought it was just in Half-Life.

Posted by: Lucas at March 2, 2009 11:46 AM

Know what? The majority of the meat my family and I consume comes from my father in laws farm.... We raise cows, turkeys and chickens, and let me tell you, a t-bone from a happy cow that had the run of the field, and all the sweet grass it can eat is so much better than a t-bone from your local grocery store. The chickens too. And when it comes down to butchering, there's no stressed out scene where the animal is pushed through a chute, made to wait while it hears other animals being killed, and has such high adrenaline it affects the flavor of the meat. Man, free-range happy animals make better meals. Not everyone has access to farms like this, but if you do what you can by choosing free-range and organic, it's better for everyone, animals included....

Posted by: Janey at March 2, 2009 11:59 AM

Would you say you care a Little?

Posted by: Optimus Rhyme at March 2, 2009 11:59 AM

I care just a TEENY bit, T-Rex!

Posted by: Mr. Tusks at March 2, 2009 12:02 PM

Summary of my posts: I like good food. I don't like torturing animals, but poor farm conditions don't affect me enough to convince me to absorb the cost of free-range amenities without some ancillary benefit to myself, i.e. increased nutritional value. My apartment in Syracuse doesn't have room for a cattle pasture, so my economic options are limited. I will, however, be more inclined to go organic and free range now, thanks to the information you all have provided (thanks). I just didn't want you all to think that I believe that KFC genetically manufacturing 6-legged chickens was a great idea (I don't.), ya know?

Posted by: Mr. Tusks at March 2, 2009 12:13 PM

I just didn't want you all to think that I believe that KFC genetically manufacturing 6-legged chickens was a great idea (I don't.), ya know?

Well duh, the legs aren't worth it. If KFC could engineer a 6-breasted chicken, that would be a different story.

Posted by: Sabrina at March 2, 2009 12:24 PM

Funny, I'm the reverse - humane treatment of animals is more convincing to me than better-tasting food. I don't know. I'm one of those people who doesn't really notice food all that much and its varying quality. I know it makes me a philistine and all, but in many ways it's a huge relief.

Posted by: samantha t at March 2, 2009 12:24 PM

You had me at 6 Breasts

Posted by: Optimus Rhyme at March 2, 2009 12:26 PM

And thank you, Mr. Tusks. Every time I see your name I want to acknowledge it but the conversation had moved on.
I love Dinosaur Comics.

Posted by: Optimus Rhyme at March 2, 2009 12:29 PM

My husband often reads books in an "A Chapter A Day" fashion at night when we are settling down in bed. This was one of them and we both felt that the information was fantastic and the writing was much less so.
Anyway, I'm only chiming in to say to Lucas that mass spectrophotometers are awesome. I use them to analyze cell lysates for extremely specific lipid profiles and the whole thing pretty much rocks if you are a molecular biologist.

Posted by: eppendork at March 2, 2009 12:37 PM

If you live in a city with a sizable Muslim community there's probably a hallal butcher nearby. No chutes, no air hammers, just a guy with a knife. While not all of us are lucky enough to live near small farms or go hunting every year, there's still ways for urbanites get meat that tastes good.

Posted by: Inaras at March 2, 2009 12:40 PM

You had me at 6 Breasts

I should get a job as Monsanto's Publicly Palatable Ideas Man. Instead of a big kerfuffle over the fish-tomato, they could've slapped some honkers on that puppy and it would've silenced all the haters.

New thought: Puppymato?

Posted by: Sabrina at March 2, 2009 12:48 PM

Sea Kitten?

Posted by: Optimus Rhyme at March 2, 2009 12:55 PM

The Puppymato -- Now with 37% more breast!

Posted by: Tracer Bullet at March 2, 2009 12:55 PM

Animal, Vegetable, Miracle is a great follow up to this book Prisco, if you're interested in taking this new way of eating a step further. Living in LA you wouldn't be able to do what they did, but it gives some insight into a new way of thinking about how and what you eat.

Michael Pollan is not at all smug when you hear him speaking about the subject matter. He's on various NPR programs from time to time.

Another point about eating organic, besides nutritional and humanitarian aspects is sustainability. It was only last year where many areas in the world were reporting severe food shortages in staple products, such as rice and wheat. I found it truly frightening how quickly this came about and the billions of people it affected. It didn't affect us rich westerners this time around though, because we have enough money to shield ourselves from these occurrences. For now. The way the dominant food industry produces our food taxes the system more than it can handle, we just haven't reached our breaking point yet. I hate to be a fatalist, but I would rather have my local, organic eating structure in place now so that inevitable breakdown in our society's current eating habits doesn't have to be so drastic to me and my family.

Posted by: katy at March 2, 2009 3:51 PM

Great review.

The whole 'organic' craze is ridiculous. I live in Honduras, an impoverished country where people can't really afford to be picky about whatever food they manage to get for themselves and their families, let alone feel sorry for cows and chickens. It's honestly astonishing to me, whenever I visit the states, to see the prices on 'organic' foods, and people falling head over heels to get them on the promise that they're doing something right. It's not just a bullshit scam that would NEVER work at a global level (we're able to feed our people BECAUSE we use chemicals to keep our crops and we raise and slaughter animals quickly because we HAVE TO) and it's just another example of how deluded the hippy-dippy sectors of the US are. The reality is vastly different in the rest of the world, and it won't be solved with trendy solutions and overpriced foods.

Posted by: figgy at March 2, 2009 4:25 PM

Sorry. I know that wasn't very coherent but...this kind of shit makes me mad, and I lose my coherence when I'm angry.

Now I'm gonna go eat me some steak and continue refusing to feel guilty about it.

Posted by: figgy at March 2, 2009 4:26 PM

Many East Indian groceries will also carry hallal meats (sometimes even cheaper than Whole Foods).

Posted by: Bodach at March 2, 2009 4:45 PM

To Paddy Dog: While I agree with you that Wednesday's (and figgy's) comments are indeed correct (and refreshing), I have to respectfully disagree with your comments about dairy cattle. I am a PhD dairy nutritionist (also a farm owner in New England = LOTS of hippies with $$ to spend) and been on dairies all over this country, Canada and Mexico. Dairy cattle are NOT raised without free movement. They are generally raised on concrete in a FREESTALL barn. That means they have freedom of movement, they are able to walk around all day (except the time they are being milked), but they spend 75% of their time laying down, in sand stalls or waterbeds. The "old" method kept cows tied in their stalls, depending on the weather, which is very labor intensive. I am also confused by your comments about "losing nutrients"...I have read section in this book about feeding corn to ruminants, and sorry, but he (Pollan) is flat out wrong. Dairy cattle have been selected for high milk production, as have beef cattle for beef, and layer hens for eggs, and so on. The have higher nutrient requirements than a cow from 1980, even. Also, it is a simple mathematical fact that grazed cows are much less efficient than cows fed corn silage and higher energy forages and grains. I am not clear how a less efficient animal is "good" for the environment. I am also unclear how using ag methods from the 1930's can support 300+ million people (impossible). Milk from grazed cows does taste different, bc of the differing volatile fatty acid concentrations in the rumen. That doesn't make feeding corn silage to cows "wrong".

As someone stated earlier, the organic movement operates largely on emotion, not fact. There is yet to be a single published study on the nutritional benefits of organic foods.

There are a million points I would love to discuss but lack the space. The best thing I can say is if you are TRULY interested in where your food comes from, don't read a book about it. GO VISIT A FARM! Talk to a farmer about his business. Call your local farm bureau, they can direct you to a producer. Less than 2% of the US population feeds the rest of us, so many people are totally unfamiliar with agriculture. Be glad you live in the US, and we haven't fallen into the European trap of banning every modern method of agriculture. Because when that happens here, expect your food to come from another country.

Posted by: K8WMA at March 2, 2009 5:39 PM

I think it's also important to keep in mind that we in the West consume a shit-ton more meat and dairy products than is healthy, regardless of how it was raised. If we were to cut back at least a small percentage, we'd be able to utilize older, less efficient, but perhaps better none the less, harvesting techniques for our foods. Lower meat/dairy intakes could have positive influences on our health, while at the same time allowing us to export more of our food to countries that are in much more NEED of high-caloric foods than we are. I'm not a scientist or doctor, so I don't know if that's necessarily true, but it feels right.
Personally, I like knowing that the chickens I'm eating grew up less than 50 miles away, and as the farmer who harvests them says, had only one bad day their whole lives. But that's just me. They provide without a doubt the tastiest chicken meat I've ever eaten. They are absolutely worth the additional costs, not to mention that the money I spend on those purchases stays in my local economy, as opposed to being shipped out of state, or out of country as in some food commodities.

And K8WMA, I completely agree with you that more of us need to make the effort to truly understand where our food comes from. AVM speaks to the beneficial effects of local CSA farms, among other things.

Posted by: Stella at March 2, 2009 6:06 PM

Interesting discussion...

I haven't read this book yet, though it has been on my "To Read" list for some time now. I've read several articles by Pollan. I don't shop at Whole Foods, but I suppose you might call me one of those hippie-dippies and I'm fine with that, whatever.

I care about animal welfare and what I put in my body. I don't agree with who the USDA regulates (or doesn't) what they classify as organic. But, I do appreciate that whatever semblance of an organic movement there is tends to emphasize a greater awareness of food production, eating healthy and, more broadly, trying to minimize our damage to the earth and its inhabitants. I know that probably sounds cheesy but I don't understand why it's so bad to give a damn about where your food comes from, how it is processed, how people involved in production are treated, and how the environment is affected.

Posted by: Mik at March 2, 2009 6:15 PM

I have to admit that I'm pretty much with Mr. Tusks as far as not being able to muster any compassion for my dinner -- and I'm quite certain the same holds true for the bear that drags little Timmy into its cave or the crocodile that drags little Timmy to the bottom of the pond. Foie gras is damned delicious even though it's a pretty raw deal for the goose. A tip of the cap to the vegan who would choose starvation when stranded on Meat Island, but when it comes to food we are just another animal.

That doesn't mean we shouldn't care about where our food comes from or what it endures en route. I'd like to be able to knowledgeably and confidently choose food that hasn't had its DNA rearranged and that hasn't been marinated in steroids or hormones or antibiotics -- no matter what the promoters of same try to tell me about how beneficial it is to their bottom lines benign it is to me. By the same token, food should not be intellectual property. So-called bioengineering is allowing agribusiness to act like the damned RIAA. Those are the practices I'm protesting when I (try to) choose "organic".

Posted by: Che Grovera at March 2, 2009 7:28 PM

I'm thinking I need to read this now, seeing as I'm going through the same dilemma right now.

Posted by: Quincy at March 2, 2009 9:14 PM

What's RIAA?

Posted by: Stella at March 3, 2009 9:27 AM

RIAA = Recording Industry Association of America

They're the fine folks who sue the hell out of teenagers for copyright (intellectual property) violation for filesharing, and who brought us the Digital Millennium Copyright Act.

While patent and copyright are substantively different areas of law, the seed companies (such as Monsanto) that have been bastardizing engineering traits into plants like "Roundup-ready" soybeans can use the same sorts of arguments and tactics to sue farmers if/when their legally-protected gene arrangement shows up in the field of a farmer who hasn't been paying for that seed. The problem, of course, is that wind-borne pollination makes it impossible for a farmer to absolutely protect his fields against those demon seeds -- but one of Monsanto's fastest-growing revenue streams is coming from its assertion of its intellectual property rights in cases just like this!

That's why they watered down the USDA's "organic" standards to permit some level of GMO (genetically modified organism) contamination -- both because it's impossible to guard against and it further legitimizes their unfounded claims that there's nothing to worry about ("Hey, the Bush administration says it's okay and we all trust the government, right?").

Posted by: Che Grovera at March 3, 2009 10:13 AM

skeery skeery shit, that right there.

Slow Food International, people. Look into it, read up on it. LIVE it.

Posted by: Stella at March 3, 2009 10:58 AM

Speak of the devil, check out this article about Monsanto from SFI.
http://sloweb.slowfood.com/sloweb/eng/dettaglio.lasso?cod=3E6E345B076651D6DBJGx42292F6

Posted by: Stella at March 3, 2009 11:13 AM

I highly enjoyed this book as well- the corn and organic scams were very enlightening.

I'm not going to change the way I eat/participate in the gross consumerism that has become our food industry, but I at least like to know the level of hypocrisy I'm consuming along with my Whole Foods granola.

Posted by: Lola at March 3, 2009 9:52 PM


















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